How to teach a dog controlled play with humans

  Ok I have recently received more emails about how to teach a dog to control their play, that I thought I would put a video out there of how I teach controlled play.

  The video is 3 minutes long,  but you can get the idea within the first 2 minutes.  The first thing to do: let them drag a leash!  This could be your only form of control during excitement.  A dog that is overly excited will be snapping at the air or correcting you for your touch and restraint.  With a leash you can safely restrain the dog and if needed, you can stand on it to keep them still. 

  The boxer in this video could not stop his excitement and has become so overly excited during play that he would mouth and break skin.  I find the best way is to teach them a “cool down” moment at the 2 minute mark. Most play will escalate into rowdy behavior at 2 minutes.  By practicing this a couple times a day, you will be conditioning your dog to “auto cool down” at the 2 minute mark.  If your dog mouths you before 2 minutes, immediately have a “cool down” moment. 

  This can also be used for the dog who likes to body slam you as well.  When a dog throws himself at you, stand up and give the “sit” command, stop all play and ignore him for 30-45 seconds or more if he is still not relaxed.   In my experience, it is better to make them have a “time out” right where the problem happened.  If you take them to their kennel or another room, they will already forget what they are there for.  I hope this video helps you and if you have any questions please feel free to email us!

Out of control to controlled play, how can I do this?

I frequently get calls about dogs that start out playing nicely then suddenly erupt into growling and biting. Many people think their dogs are being aggressive or that they are schizophrenic. Your dog does not act this way because they “flipped a switch”; they do this because it is normal for play to get heated after a couple of minutes of rough play.
We tend to teach our dogs to stop and relax after one and half to two minutes of play. We do this by having them on leash in the beginning. We start a good game of tug then at 1.5 minutes we say calmly, “enough” and stop play. We will do it sooner if they start to growl. We literally wait 30-45 seconds then start play again. This quick “cool down” mode is repeated with each play session to condition them to do so on their own. Just like anything else, you must be consistent. With enough practice, they will automatically separate from play on their own at 1.5-2 minutes. Our pack will run around chasing each other then get to nipping at each others legs, like clockwork they all break off at 2 minutes and walk away to start sniffing the ground. This is a signal to the other dogs that there is no challenge. You can teach any dog to do this, at any age.
If you watch an adult dog play with a rowdy puppy, they will stop and turn their bodies away from them or possibly walk away when the pup gets rough or vocal. They usually “avoid” the pup until the pup gets distracted and try again. This teaches the pup that playtime stops with rowdy behavior. The adult dog will repeatedly continue this process, unless the pup does not stop. If the pup does not stop, they will give a warning “chuff” or “growl” before a correction. This is where most people make mistakes.
Humans have been conditioned to correct simultaneously with a verbal correction, which is not fair to the pup, nor does it teach them anything. We have to remember that pups learn from our actions, if you correct at the same time as a verbal; you are not giving them time to make the right decision. Try to remain calm when correcting your pup and in a firm, low tone, say “uh uh”. Wait a couple of seconds then correct if the behavior is continuing. By correcting, I do not mean “roll” them on their backs! This will only make your dog anxious. If you have them on a leash, a quick down/stay is enough to stop unruly behavior. If your pup does not know down or stay, stand on the leash with them next to you and ignore them until they calm down. When they do, calmly without petting them say “ok” and start again. Why should you not pet them? This brings their excitement right back to a peak. By calmly saying “ok”, you are displaying what you want, calm behavior.
Teaching your pup calmness and proper play can be a challenge but don’t give up and don’t get frustrated. Stay calm and you will have the results you want in a matter of time!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & “the pack”

Aggression Research Study

We do not ask your name or information for this survey, it is strictly for research purposes.  Included in this survey are questions from the Volhard Drive Test, one of the legendary experts in dog behavior. Please feel free to share this with your friends and family. The more surveys we receive, the more acurate the research.
We ask that you fill out the following questions to the best of your knowledge, and send them to our research email:
thepacktrack@gmail.com

Aggression Research Survey

What breed of dog do you own?

What age did they start showing aggression?

What age & where did you acquire your dog?

What age were they taken away from mom?

What is their current age?

Was your dog very mouthy as a pup? (biting hands, legs)

Has their bite gotten harder?

How have you tried to correct the mouthing?

Has your dog been to obedience classes? At what age?

Does your dog pull or lunge on walks?

What is the target of his/her aggression?

Does you’re dog snap, bark at you when corrected?

Please answer the following on a scale of 0-10
(10 being all the time, 5 being sometimes, 0 being never)

When you are walking, do they sniff the ground or air?

Get excited by moving objects, such as bikes or squirrels?

Stalk cats, other dogs, or things in the grass?

When excited; bark in a short, high-pitched voice?

Pounce on his toys?

Shake and “kill” his toys?

Steal food or garbage?

Like to carry things in his mouth?

Eat in a hurry?

Like to dig and/or bury things?

Get along with other dogs?

Get along with people?
Bark when left alone?

Solicit petting, or like to snuggle with you?

Like to be groomed?

Seek eye contact with you?

Follow you around like a shadow?

Play a lot with other dogs?

Jump up to greet people?

Show reproductive behaviors, such as mounting other dogs?

Stand his ground or show curiosity in strange objects or sounds?

Like to play tug-of-war games to win?

Bark or growl in a deep tone of voice?

Guard his territory?

Guard his food or toys?

Dislike being petted?

Guard his owner(s)?

Dislike being groomed or petted?

Like to fight other dogs?

Get picked on by older dogs when he was a young dog?

Run away from new situations?

Hide behind you when he feels he can’t cope?

Act fearfully in unfamiliar situations?

Tremble or whine when unsure?

Cower or turn upside down when reprimanded?

Act reluctant to come close to you when called?

Have difficulty standing still when groomed?

Cower or cringe when a stranger bends over him?

Urinate during greeting behavior?

Tend to bite when cornered?

And finally,

What type of training tool do you use now or have you used for walking?
& at what age did you start using these different tools? (Please give age for each tool used.)

1. Prong/Pinch Collar

2. Slip Collar

3. Martingale

4. Gentle Leader or head halter type

5. Easy Walk Harness or no pull harness type

6. Regular Harness

7. Regular Flat Collar

Thank you for taking our survey!

Training by Tara
www.trainingbytara.com
512-402-4229
for appointments:
myheart4k9s@aol.com

Learning your dog’s body language: Targeting

Targeting

 

  Many people misread their dog’s body language; I see it on a daily basis.  I have clients that come to me because their dog is “friendly” one second and biting the next.  The problem here in most cases, is that we are reading their body language incorrectly.  My clients see a wagging tail and think their dogs are happy and playful, I see a whole different scenario. 

  In an attempt to explain their body language, I have posted some photos of what you need to look out for.  I will explain in detail, the body language you are seeing in the following pictures as well as what you are not seeing.

  The first set of pictures here are an example of targeting from a rescue we rehabilitated and adopted out.

 

Picture 1. Relaxed Targeting:

  Here his body is relaxed; notice his top line is slightly curved down.  He does not display any tightness in his body at all and if you were to touch him, he would be very “soft”, meaning he would move into your touch and you could move him easily with almost no force.  His legs are not braced or squared off; meaning they are relaxed with the toes pointing out.  He is also not “puffing up” or putting his chest out.  You could move him by simply touching him. His ears are relaxed but slightly forward, not forced forward.

 Another sign that he is relaxed is that he is panting.  If he were stressed and panting, his tongue would be wide at the end and hanging long.  Notice his tail is level to his body; at the time of this picture, it had been wagging in a sweeping motion.  The tail can tell you a lot about your dogs’ mood.  A level or low sweeping tail is a happy tail! A rapidly wagging tail is a nervous dog and just the tip of the tail wagging means something is about to happen! Here his head is not tilted downward and he is almost carefree in his look.  This is a typical stance of a dog that is showing interest in something.   

 

 

Picture 2. Extreme Targeting:

  Now here, notice how tight his body looks!  His top line has gone from relaxed to straight. His body is so tense you would really have to try hard to move him and if you touched him, he would feel very “hard”; meaning his muscles are tightened.  His legs are now braced and squared off.  Notice how his front legs are together and facing forward, and his back legs are almost straight and no longer bent at the knee.  He is now leaning into his front end and “puffing up”.  His mouth is now closed and his head is tilted down. I call this the angry professor look!  You all know what I mean. You’re in class and you are talking, you look up and there is the professor looking over his glasses at you. This is a clear example of a hard target, his head is pointing down and he is looking straight down his nose. His ears are now forced forward.  Many people have a hard time telling the difference between ears that are forced forward and relaxed forward.  Look closely at the two pictures.  In picture one, they almost look like they are facing outward.  Here they are pushed forward all the way. In this picture, his tail is tightly held up and not wagging.  If the picture had been taken from the front, you would notice slight forehead wrinkles.  In some dogs, these wrinkles are very pronounced during a target. 

 Picture two is a typical stance prior to lunge. This dog happened to be extremely dog-dog aggressive. Two seconds after this stance, he had an explosive reaction towards the dog on the other side of the fence.

  Some dogs will also raise the hair on their back.  This is very important to pay attention to.  If your dog’s hair only stands up on their neck and shoulders, this is a threatening manner.  If, however, their hair is raised all the way down their back, this is a fearful manner.

  I have had people insist their dog is “mean” when they are approached by another dog.  They tell me their hair stands up and they bare their teeth or snap at the other dog.  When I ask them where the hair stands up on the dog, they generally tell me from nose to tail. I then ask how the other dog approached.  The normal answer is the other dog rushed in and greeted face to face.  Their dog was not being “mean” but acting out of defense fight drive.  They were fearful of the rude approach and tried to protect themselves. 

  Dogs have different drives that they act on.  In defense, they have fight or flight.  If your dog is on leash and they are fearful of another dog, they cannot go into defense flight and run away.  This means if they feel unprotected by their owner, they will resort to defense fight to protect themselves. Correcting a dog that is fearful and soft, can be a big mistake and usually advances the aggression.

  If your having trouble with dog-dog aggression, please contact a behaviorist. Make sure they understand body language, the level of different drives, and how to change drives in your dog.  Every dog is different, but they all share the same drives.  Understanding their body language and which drive is higher in your dog, will help make rehabilitation more effective.   

.

 

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “Pack”

Really, please think twice before prong collar use!

OK I know I am beating this topic to death, but just this week I have had 4 cases of aggression that have developed after prong collar use.
Four in a week is too many.  I know people call it “power steering” of dog training but please think about your dogs personality before using it.
Dogs have different “drives”, and if their defense fight drive is the highest of the main 4 (defense fight, defense flight, prey, and pack) you are at risk for an aggressive dog later on.
If a trainer or friend recommends using a prong, please make sure you know how high their defense fight drive is before using it.
Two of the cases this week, the dogs had no aggression prior to use of the prong. Both had taken a class and the instructor recommended a prong to make walking easier. Both after a few months started to get mouthy with their owners and with time started biting harder to the point of leaving bruises or wounds, and correcting the owners when corrected for bad behaviors.  Both of these dogs had a good foundation and the owners tried to hire other trainers to help them get through the aggression that developed later.  But their defense fight was high and they never stopped using the prong collars.  I have trained dogs with a very high defense fight drive without a prong and they have not shown more aggression in the years that pass.  It is possible to train a dog to walk calmly on leash without a prong collar, but you must understand the different drives in a dog.
  The other two cases showed nervousness and fear, around other dogs in a basic class and again the instructors recommended prong collars to “control” their walks.  They were not aggressive towards other dogs but had equal defense fight and flight drives. This caused them to become more aggressive as the months went on, to a point where they are now lunging at other dogs, and redirecting their aggression on their owners.  Everytime they “backed up” from a dog or situation they were afraid of, they were biten by the collar.  Naturally they put the two together and started to go into their defense fight drive when frightened.
In all of the above cases, proper understanding of drives and leash training in a different technique could have stopped the loss of bite inhibition and redirected aggression.  If the instructor you are using solely prefers prongs, I would recommend researching another class.  Again please do some research on how high your dogs drives are before considering the use of a prong.  Make sure the instructor understands the different drives in dogs before you rely on the “wonder tool” of the training business.  It will make your life  easier and your dog much happier.

 Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

My dog rushes out the door when it opens!

Your doorbell rings, and of course you go to answer it; the race has begun! You try to get there before your dog so you can stop him from assaulting your guests with their over excited greeting behavior or causing a mid-day chase around the neighborhood because they got out the door. A wrestling match has started as you try to grab their collar, and you feel like you are dancing with your dog as you circle round and round. You finally get their collar and open the door. Now begins the human-dog tug of war, and launching when your guests come in. All of this usually happens in the longest and most exhausting 3 minutes you ever had.
I hear this story everyday from owners who are at odds as to what to do about their dog and their greeting manners. Too many people have let their doorway “go to the dogs” so to speak! Most consults I go on, the dog greets me first. They are happily saying, “Welcome to my house, this is my pack!” Many owners have tried to “reclaim” their doorways by having their dogs sit at the door, but they still cannot control the bad manners of jumping or rushing out the door!
The problem is, as hard as you try, if your dog is right next to the doorway you will have a harder time controlling them! The doorway creates 5 steps of excitement for all dogs!
1. The doorbell or knocking
2. You touching the doorknob
3. You opening the door
4. The high pitched greeting most people use to welcome their guests
5. The new people coming in to your den!
People forget that dogs have a very short attention span! They react to each step of excitement! When practicing door control you must remember these 5 steps!
When the doorbell rings, quietly go to the door and check to see whom it is. Again, quietly! Your dog is doing their job by alerting you; don’t yell at them for it! If you yell at them you have joined them in barking at a stranger. If you quietly walk up you have acted like an alpha.
When you get there, calmly turn around and say “enough”, then place them in a sit/stay far enough back that if they start to move, you have time to shut the door! You cannot be quicker then your dog, so give yourself some room! Your dog should be sitting five to ten steps away from the door (in the beginning you may need the help of a family member and a leash).
When your dog is sitting, reach for the doorknob and repeat your stay command (remember each step is a new and exciting adventure for them). Then open the door and repeat stay again. Do not yell at them to stay. If they break, close the door and calmly place them back in a sit/stay. If you get frustrated or yell it will make your job ten times harder.
After each of the above five steps, repeat your stay command calmly. When your guests come in, you must initiate the greeting! Tell your dog to “go say hello” if they are calm! If your dog is too excited then keep them in a sit/stay until your guests walk past them. I always tell my guests to just walk past my pack without talking or looking at them. When you are aloof to a dog they generally do not get overly excited! After they are calm release them! If you are consistent and practice this with each arrival, you will notice your dog will auto sit/stay when the doorbell rings!

 

 

 

This is what door control should look like!

 

 

 

Good luck, and please contact us if you need help!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda and the “pack!”

www.trainingbytara.com

Pack Mentality, Can it really be seen in Domestic Dogs?

In the recent weeks, I have heard and read too many people saying domestic dogs do not possess the same “pack” mentality that wolves do. Seriously? I have studied canine body language and behavior “hands on” for 20 years. From all my research and the cases that I have worked with, every dog understands their own language (pack behavior and body language). Dogs are pack animals, period! Even the smallest of breeds will demonstrate this! I recently read an article about a pack of Chihuahuas that attacked a police officer in California! Now granted, a pack of Chihuahuas cannot do serious damage (besides some ankle wounds), but these dogs were defending their owner in a pack-like manner!
I believe a lot of this has come to debate because of the “Dog Whisperer”, Cesar Milan. Many trainers and people dislike him and his methods of training, some think his stand on pack behavior is incorrect. While I do not agree with all of Cesar’s methods, I do agree with his theory. I find many people who have studied pack behavior and have worked with aggressive dogs (successfully), understand them, and work with them in the language they understand. Dogs are naturally pack animals and follow their instincts and their own language.
I have had a great many debates over this with other trainers and clients. I have had trainers tell me that training a domestic dog is completely different because they are not wild. Some trainers think human alpha training is wrong and that there should be a canine pack order among a domestic dog pack. They regularly suggest letting one dog be the alpha (usually the older weaker dog); feeding them first, giving them more attention, and taking them on walks alone (essentially, they make them a target). I believe these people have slept through the news about packs of domestic dogs that have attacked livestock and humans when abandoned.
First I would like to quote what Wikipedia declares in their article on dog attacks.
“Dogs as pack animals will often seek to dominate others in their pack or family (acquire more status and authority) if they feel they are able. A dog that seeks to dominate may use aggression as a means to elevate its perceived power and authority, or to make others respect its wishes and not challenge it. Pet owners are generally encouraged to not allow a dog to become overly dominant due to the aggressive behavior that may result.
Dominance may include “pushy” behavior, refusal to show respect or obedience to humans, attempted “ownership” of high status locations such as beds, sofas, or doorways, and in general, any type of behavior the animal sees as furthering a dominant social role.”
Again, the above is directly from the Wikipedia site.
When I lived in NY, Queens was the dumping ground for unwanted dogs. There was plenty of open space where owners could just pull up and let their dogs out. As awful as this sounds to us dog lovers, it happens all over!
There have been many domestic dog pack attacks in Queens. Obviously, we all know wolves do not live on Long Island. In Dec. 2001, a 74 yr old man was attacked by a pack of 5 abandoned dogs. This pack went on to also attack a jogger before they were captured. According to the victims, the dogs circled and stalked them prior to attacking. They attacked like “wolves” because it is their instinct. In Feb. 2005, a pack of 3 dogs found to be abandoned by their owners, terrorized a local neighborhood including an elementary school. The animal control declared these dogs as not vicious and said they were most likely someone’s pets that were left to fend for themselves. Again, these dogs relied on their instinct to form a pack and hunt and defend the same way a pack does.
All over the world stray dogs have formed packs to survive! In Jan. of this year in Bainbridge Georgia, a 73 yr old woman was attacked by a pack of five dogs. These dogs had also been responsible for attacking local livestock. Then in Feb of this year in Dayton Ohio, a pack of dogs was responsible for attacking a German Shepard and several other animals in the neighborhood. In Morristown, Tenn., a 22 yr old woman was attacked by a pack of 8 heelers while jogging down a rural road. They were owned by a local resident who was charged for letting them roam free.  Even in Italy, a 10 yr old boy was killed by a pack of famished dogs that were owned by local woman. They were not properly cared for and fended for themselves the way wolves would. And here in Texas, a pack of dogs in Lakeway was responsible for attacking local livestock a few months ago.
To say domestic dogs do not “act” as wild dogs or wolves do is ridiculous. Any dog will go back to their natural ways if abandoned or given the opportunity. It does not matter how long they were owned or “spoiled” by us humans. I have cases that owners have contacted me for, where one of the pack has been killed or seriously injured by another pack member. These dogs were not mistreated, nor neglected. They were domestic dogs that were cared for properly but given the right to have a pack order among themselves. The dog they killed or attacked in most cases was the weak, old alpha or another strong dominant dog that wanted the alpha position.
Remember in a pack, the leader will “size up” the situation and decide whether it is a good idea to attack or not. The pack will not act unless the leader says it is ok. If it is, they will circle, stalk, and one or more of the pack will attack from the best and safest position; usually from behind the victim. If the leader feels threatened in anyway by a situation, the pack will attack. It is a natural response for them. This is also seen in households. You are your dogs pack and hopefully, their leader.
Anyone who owns a dog needs to realize that they are pack animals. You cannot change this, no matter how long their lineage is, what size, or how well treated they are; they are still dogs and they still have a natural pack drive. This is not a bad trait; this is why a dog is such a loyal companion!
If you understand pack mentality and talk to them in their own language, dogs are calm, happy, and very obedient. Even a dog who has an aggressive history can become a great dog with the right owner and proper training.

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Is playing with my dog enough exercise?

Adequate exercise for your dog

I have had many people ask me, “What is the right amount of exercise for a dog?” My answer is always, if your dog spends a good majority of the time with you, in a relaxed state; no pacing, no destruction and no anxiety, you know your dog is getting enough exercise.
All dogs need exercise to be happy and healthy. Their natural instinct is to walk for miles, following the leader to find and hunt for food. This is why you never see a pack with a member who is destructively chewing things, running off or acting out. These long walks fulfill their physical and mental needs. Let me stress that it is the “walk” that they need. Too many times I have heard “my dog has a big backyard to exercise all day in.” This is the worst thing anyone can tell me. Your backyard is not adequate exercise for your dog. They may get a burst of energy and do fence sprints to chase away intruders (people outside their territory or even squirrels and cats who dare to challenge their turf); but for the most part of their outside time they are laying around enjoying the sun and fresh air. If you were sitting around playing video games all day, with an occasional trip to the kitchen, would you feel exercised? The answer is no. Neither does your dog after spending hours out in that big beautiful yard you have. Another mistake is thinking that playing ball or Frisbee for 30 minutes is enough. It truly isn’t. A strict military style walk for 20-30 minutes (or more depending on the breed) where they have to focus on you (the leader) will wear your dog out. Think of it this way, you go to a picnic, you are socializing, playing games all day. When you get home you can still function and do things, right? However, if you are at work and have to meet a deadline by 5 pm, your mind is very actively thinking about getting things done. Now when you get home those things you wanted to do, well they can wait until the next day because, wow, you are exhausted! This has always been my theory on proper exercise for your pet. Playtime will never wear them out, work will. Walking with their leader (you), and focusing on the job at hand makes them more tired. If you have problems with leash walking check out our leash control program, don’t give up. It only leads to destruction of your personal items, and a dog that does not mind you. A strict walk solidifies your role as leader to your dog! Remember, whoever is in the lead, is the leader!
The amount of time your dog needs to exercise depends on the breed, size and age of your dog. A border collie requires large amounts of exercise and mental stimulation in order for them to be calm, where a pug only requires short walks and games that make them think. If you own or are looking to own a dog, research the breed to make sure it matches your energy and activity levels. Unfortunately too many people impulsively purchase a dog without having any idea what physical requirements are needed in the future. Every dog is different, with different physical and mental needs. With that said, all dogs need exercise. Without it they find a way to release their energy, and normally it isn’t the right way. I have seen some dogs lie down next to a wall and chew through sheetrock just to release their tension. Others will chew furniture, dig up the yard, chew personal items, mouth their owners, or start to display anxious behavior. A tired dog rarely displays signs of anxiety; they burn off that bad energy.
For some dogs, mostly working breeds, I recommend using a doggie backpack to add to the walk and give them a job. With our 18-month-old Border Collie, daily obedience practice and tricks are needed (to keep her mind busy) as well as an hour run. The run is combined with a backpack that has frozen water bottles on each side for weight. This also keeps her cool while running; you need to use caution as to not overheat your dog. For our Chihuahua, a short training session is enough to wear her out. Ask your veterinarian or find a breed group site to tell you how much exercise your dog needs and can handle.
For dogs that cannot exercise physically, teach them tricks or commands. Daily practice sessions with your dog will not only make your bond stronger, but also give you something to show your friends and family! “Look how smart my dog is!” The more commands or tricks you do with your dog, the more focus you get from them. We call it the “what’s next?!” look. You will soon notice that your dog is actively looking to you for the next fun thing to do!
If you provide adequate exercise and mental stimulation for your dog, you will both benefit. No more stress or frustration for you, and no more boredom for them!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Dog Whisperer: good,bad & should you practice it?

Dog Whisperer Fans, please read!
On a daily basis, I hear from clients that they are big fans of the Dog Whisperer. While I am thankful Caesar Milan has raised awareness about the fact that corrections are necessary for dogs, there are a few things I really need to touch upon.
For years, I have been in some heated debates about correcting a dog instead of using strictly “positive/reward” based methods. I modify a dog’s behavior the way another dog would; they correct for bad pack manners and reward for good behavior. When was the last time you witnessed an alpha of a pack give a reward or affection to a pack member for challenging their rank? This being said, too many people are over-correcting their dogs because they watch Caesar and do not reward and praise behavior they want! I witness the clients who use Caesars methods of “shhing”, biting with their hands, rolling the dog on their side, and “kicking” them in the rump everyday. Most of these dogs are being corrected for fear or lack of leadership on the owner’s part!
While it seems that every dog Caesar works with miraculously turns good in one episode, I urge people to understand that this show is edited and certain cases are shown for a reason. Most of the cases that are aired are “hard” dogs, or dogs who “bounce” back from a correction quickly. He also understands a dog’s body language and personality before he begins his “treatment”, which he generally changes if the dog is weak nerved (although arguably not enough). I cannot begin to tell you how many times I have seen an owner use the “kick” method to a dog’s rump if they are barking at another dog. This is probably my biggest pet peeve about the show! There is no reason to ever “touch” your dog with your foot! If you cannot redirect your dog’s attention, you and your dog need more training! Countless people have turned their dogs into anxious messes because they are being over-corrected or misunderstood!
One case “Caesar” fan I worked with had been a dog with food obsession. The owner repeatedly scruffed the dog and forced him into a down position while he was eating because he was stiffening up by his bowl. Everyday this dog felt like eating was a battle and of course, became increasingly aggressive and anxious when feeding time came around. This made the battles worse and eventually, made the dog growl and challenge the owner for everything. Yet another was a fearful little dog that barked at other dogs out of fear and anxiety, the owner repeatedly “kicked” the dog in the rump to redirect her attention on him. This just made the dog more fearful of the owner and more reactive to any dog coming. The cases go on and on, really there are too many to list. The major problem with doing what you watch is the lack of knowledge he gives about why he performs his methods on certain dogs! Again as many trainers and behavior specialists in the field, this is where my frustration lies!
I do believe corrections are needed for bad behavior, but one good correction, not constant corrections. If your dog is not responding to one correction, you are doing it wrong! Stop and get help before things get worse and you lose the respect of a strong and fair leader. This is very important to remember, all dogs need a strong but fair leader (a leader that not only corrects, but rewards and communicates when they do something properly).
I rarely see clients praise the dog when it performs well. I do see people over-correcting and holding on to their anger even after the deed is done. You must remember your dog does not rationalize as we do. When your dog barks at another dog and you correct for it, don’t keep talking to them or try to explain why they can’t do this. After a correction if they look at you, this is what you want and they should get praise for eye contact with you, not more correcting! This is extremely important! How many times have you corrected your dog for something then had a long conversation with them as to why they can’t do that? Your dog cannot understand your lecture, but they can understand that you’re angry and now you are correcting them for looking at you!
Please continue to watch the Dog Whisperer as he is helping many people understand that dogs are not humans, but I urge you to not try his techniques unless you truly understand WHY your dog is doing what they are doing.
Tara,Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Dogs destroying your house! Why???

I received a phone call the other day from a clients dog.  Yes, the dog.  I was in the middle of a session and let my voicemail pick it up as to not interrupt my clients time.  After 4 minutes the voicemail alert rang.  My first thought was that someone really needed to “talk” about their dog.  When I finished my session I immediately listened to the message.  I heard lots of growling, snorting, and chewing followed by an owner in the background yelling at their dog, who continued to leave me a very graphic message.  The client who owned this prank caller had contacted me about the destruction the dog is causing on a daily basis.  “If it is not tied down, he will steal it and chew it up”, is what I was told on the consult.  I hear this everyday, owners who are distraught by their dogs destructiveness. 

The reason for most destructive behavior is boredom and frustration! While anxious dogs will also destroy things, the simple fact of the matter is, a tired dog is a good dog! 

This is the result of a dog who works!

 

 

 

 

 

 Proper exercise and a crate solve 90 % of destructive behaviors for owners. If you have not read it yet please read my post ”is it mean to crate your dog”.  

 Most owners feel that having a backyard for their dog to run around in all day or playing fetch is appropriate exercise for their dogs.  While physical activity is required for your dog, mental stimulation and focus makes your dog tired.  I like to use the example of you going to a party or social event.  If you go on a picnic and play frisbee, or catch you may be physically tired when you get home, but you are still able to do your daily routines.  If you are working, however, and have a deadline to make or had a really mentally stimulating day, anything you normally do can wait until the next day because you are just too tired physically and mentally!  The same holds true with dogs!  Bored or frustrated dogs will find something to occupy their time, and normally it is something that is quite expensive to replace or remove form their bellies. 

Play is just that , play.  Dogs need to work to feel fulfilled, and by this I don’t mean you must become a search and rescue team.  You can “work” your dog by simply taking them on a “controlled” walk or practicing obedience commands with them on a daily basis.  If you have taken your dog to an obedience class, you know how tired they are when they come home.  I have many people who tell me after an hour session, whether it is a private session or class setting, their dog is exhuasted.  The reason is they were working! 

The majority of owners never really “walk” their dogs.  They may take them out on a leash but they still allow them to sniff around, and mark everything during the walk.  Again this is not a “controlled” walk, this is them passing notes in class!  Your dog marks to let others know he was there and this is his territory.  If you have a backyard, there is no reason for them to mark on a walk.  That is what their backyard is for, try playing fetch before you go on your walk to help them empty out before the walk. If your dog is marking on your walks they are actually making their territory larger and will “protect” it from other intruders.  If you live in an apartment building, make it a point to walk your dog to a designated area to potty.  Pick one spot, and one spot only.  Have them walk with you in a “controlled” manner to that spot and then allow them to sniff and potty.  Then have them walked a “controlled” walk back to your apartment. 

A good “military” style walk where your dog focuses on you and not the world around them, wears them out and strenghens your leadership.  If you need help teaching your dog to walk better on a leash or are having anxiety issues, contact us or a local trainer to help you teach them!  Enroll your dog in a class or set aside time everyday to practice the commands they know for at least 30-45 minutes, and walk your dog!  These are the best solutions to stopping the destruction and long distance calls your dog may make!

Tara, Brandie & the “pack”