Learning your dog’s body language: Targeting

Targeting

 

  Many people misread their dog’s body language; I see it on a daily basis.  I have clients that come to me because their dog is “friendly” one second and biting the next.  The problem here in most cases, is that we are reading their body language incorrectly.  My clients see a wagging tail and think their dogs are happy and playful, I see a whole different scenario. 

  In an attempt to explain their body language, I have posted some photos of what you need to look out for.  I will explain in detail, the body language you are seeing in the following pictures as well as what you are not seeing.

  The first set of pictures here are an example of targeting from a rescue we rehabilitated and adopted out.

 

Picture 1. Relaxed Targeting:

  Here his body is relaxed; notice his top line is slightly curved down.  He does not display any tightness in his body at all and if you were to touch him, he would be very “soft”, meaning he would move into your touch and you could move him easily with almost no force.  His legs are not braced or squared off; meaning they are relaxed with the toes pointing out.  He is also not “puffing up” or putting his chest out.  You could move him by simply touching him. His ears are relaxed but slightly forward, not forced forward.

 Another sign that he is relaxed is that he is panting.  If he were stressed and panting, his tongue would be wide at the end and hanging long.  Notice his tail is level to his body; at the time of this picture, it had been wagging in a sweeping motion.  The tail can tell you a lot about your dogs’ mood.  A level or low sweeping tail is a happy tail! A rapidly wagging tail is a nervous dog and just the tip of the tail wagging means something is about to happen! Here his head is not tilted downward and he is almost carefree in his look.  This is a typical stance of a dog that is showing interest in something.   

 

 

Picture 2. Extreme Targeting:

  Now here, notice how tight his body looks!  His top line has gone from relaxed to straight. His body is so tense you would really have to try hard to move him and if you touched him, he would feel very “hard”; meaning his muscles are tightened.  His legs are now braced and squared off.  Notice how his front legs are together and facing forward, and his back legs are almost straight and no longer bent at the knee.  He is now leaning into his front end and “puffing up”.  His mouth is now closed and his head is tilted down. I call this the angry professor look!  You all know what I mean. You’re in class and you are talking, you look up and there is the professor looking over his glasses at you. This is a clear example of a hard target, his head is pointing down and he is looking straight down his nose. His ears are now forced forward.  Many people have a hard time telling the difference between ears that are forced forward and relaxed forward.  Look closely at the two pictures.  In picture one, they almost look like they are facing outward.  Here they are pushed forward all the way. In this picture, his tail is tightly held up and not wagging.  If the picture had been taken from the front, you would notice slight forehead wrinkles.  In some dogs, these wrinkles are very pronounced during a target. 

 Picture two is a typical stance prior to lunge. This dog happened to be extremely dog-dog aggressive. Two seconds after this stance, he had an explosive reaction towards the dog on the other side of the fence.

  Some dogs will also raise the hair on their back.  This is very important to pay attention to.  If your dog’s hair only stands up on their neck and shoulders, this is a threatening manner.  If, however, their hair is raised all the way down their back, this is a fearful manner.

  I have had people insist their dog is “mean” when they are approached by another dog.  They tell me their hair stands up and they bare their teeth or snap at the other dog.  When I ask them where the hair stands up on the dog, they generally tell me from nose to tail. I then ask how the other dog approached.  The normal answer is the other dog rushed in and greeted face to face.  Their dog was not being “mean” but acting out of defense fight drive.  They were fearful of the rude approach and tried to protect themselves. 

  Dogs have different drives that they act on.  In defense, they have fight or flight.  If your dog is on leash and they are fearful of another dog, they cannot go into defense flight and run away.  This means if they feel unprotected by their owner, they will resort to defense fight to protect themselves. Correcting a dog that is fearful and soft, can be a big mistake and usually advances the aggression.

  If your having trouble with dog-dog aggression, please contact a behaviorist. Make sure they understand body language, the level of different drives, and how to change drives in your dog.  Every dog is different, but they all share the same drives.  Understanding their body language and which drive is higher in your dog, will help make rehabilitation more effective.   

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Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “Pack”

Really, please think twice before prong collar use!

OK I know I am beating this topic to death, but just this week I have had 4 cases of aggression that have developed after prong collar use.
Four in a week is too many.  I know people call it “power steering” of dog training but please think about your dogs personality before using it.
Dogs have different “drives”, and if their defense fight drive is the highest of the main 4 (defense fight, defense flight, prey, and pack) you are at risk for an aggressive dog later on.
If a trainer or friend recommends using a prong, please make sure you know how high their defense fight drive is before using it.
Two of the cases this week, the dogs had no aggression prior to use of the prong. Both had taken a class and the instructor recommended a prong to make walking easier. Both after a few months started to get mouthy with their owners and with time started biting harder to the point of leaving bruises or wounds, and correcting the owners when corrected for bad behaviors.  Both of these dogs had a good foundation and the owners tried to hire other trainers to help them get through the aggression that developed later.  But their defense fight was high and they never stopped using the prong collars.  I have trained dogs with a very high defense fight drive without a prong and they have not shown more aggression in the years that pass.  It is possible to train a dog to walk calmly on leash without a prong collar, but you must understand the different drives in a dog.
  The other two cases showed nervousness and fear, around other dogs in a basic class and again the instructors recommended prong collars to “control” their walks.  They were not aggressive towards other dogs but had equal defense fight and flight drives. This caused them to become more aggressive as the months went on, to a point where they are now lunging at other dogs, and redirecting their aggression on their owners.  Everytime they “backed up” from a dog or situation they were afraid of, they were biten by the collar.  Naturally they put the two together and started to go into their defense fight drive when frightened.
In all of the above cases, proper understanding of drives and leash training in a different technique could have stopped the loss of bite inhibition and redirected aggression.  If the instructor you are using solely prefers prongs, I would recommend researching another class.  Again please do some research on how high your dogs drives are before considering the use of a prong.  Make sure the instructor understands the different drives in dogs before you rely on the “wonder tool” of the training business.  It will make your life  easier and your dog much happier.

 Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

My dog rushes out the door when it opens!

Your doorbell rings, and of course you go to answer it; the race has begun! You try to get there before your dog so you can stop him from assaulting your guests with their over excited greeting behavior or causing a mid-day chase around the neighborhood because they got out the door. A wrestling match has started as you try to grab their collar, and you feel like you are dancing with your dog as you circle round and round. You finally get their collar and open the door. Now begins the human-dog tug of war, and launching when your guests come in. All of this usually happens in the longest and most exhausting 3 minutes you ever had.
I hear this story everyday from owners who are at odds as to what to do about their dog and their greeting manners. Too many people have let their doorway “go to the dogs” so to speak! Most consults I go on, the dog greets me first. They are happily saying, “Welcome to my house, this is my pack!” Many owners have tried to “reclaim” their doorways by having their dogs sit at the door, but they still cannot control the bad manners of jumping or rushing out the door!
The problem is, as hard as you try, if your dog is right next to the doorway you will have a harder time controlling them! The doorway creates 5 steps of excitement for all dogs!
1. The doorbell or knocking
2. You touching the doorknob
3. You opening the door
4. The high pitched greeting most people use to welcome their guests
5. The new people coming in to your den!
People forget that dogs have a very short attention span! They react to each step of excitement! When practicing door control you must remember these 5 steps!
When the doorbell rings, quietly go to the door and check to see whom it is. Again, quietly! Your dog is doing their job by alerting you; don’t yell at them for it! If you yell at them you have joined them in barking at a stranger. If you quietly walk up you have acted like an alpha.
When you get there, calmly turn around and say “enough”, then place them in a sit/stay far enough back that if they start to move, you have time to shut the door! You cannot be quicker then your dog, so give yourself some room! Your dog should be sitting five to ten steps away from the door (in the beginning you may need the help of a family member and a leash).
When your dog is sitting, reach for the doorknob and repeat your stay command (remember each step is a new and exciting adventure for them). Then open the door and repeat stay again. Do not yell at them to stay. If they break, close the door and calmly place them back in a sit/stay. If you get frustrated or yell it will make your job ten times harder.
After each of the above five steps, repeat your stay command calmly. When your guests come in, you must initiate the greeting! Tell your dog to “go say hello” if they are calm! If your dog is too excited then keep them in a sit/stay until your guests walk past them. I always tell my guests to just walk past my pack without talking or looking at them. When you are aloof to a dog they generally do not get overly excited! After they are calm release them! If you are consistent and practice this with each arrival, you will notice your dog will auto sit/stay when the doorbell rings!

 

 

 

This is what door control should look like!

 

 

 

Good luck, and please contact us if you need help!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda and the “pack!”

www.trainingbytara.com

Pack Mentality, Can it really be seen in Domestic Dogs?

In the recent weeks, I have heard and read too many people saying domestic dogs do not possess the same “pack” mentality that wolves do. Seriously? I have studied canine body language and behavior “hands on” for 20 years. From all my research and the cases that I have worked with, every dog understands their own language (pack behavior and body language). Dogs are pack animals, period! Even the smallest of breeds will demonstrate this! I recently read an article about a pack of Chihuahuas that attacked a police officer in California! Now granted, a pack of Chihuahuas cannot do serious damage (besides some ankle wounds), but these dogs were defending their owner in a pack-like manner!
I believe a lot of this has come to debate because of the “Dog Whisperer”, Cesar Milan. Many trainers and people dislike him and his methods of training, some think his stand on pack behavior is incorrect. While I do not agree with all of Cesar’s methods, I do agree with his theory. I find many people who have studied pack behavior and have worked with aggressive dogs (successfully), understand them, and work with them in the language they understand. Dogs are naturally pack animals and follow their instincts and their own language.
I have had a great many debates over this with other trainers and clients. I have had trainers tell me that training a domestic dog is completely different because they are not wild. Some trainers think human alpha training is wrong and that there should be a canine pack order among a domestic dog pack. They regularly suggest letting one dog be the alpha (usually the older weaker dog); feeding them first, giving them more attention, and taking them on walks alone (essentially, they make them a target). I believe these people have slept through the news about packs of domestic dogs that have attacked livestock and humans when abandoned.
First I would like to quote what Wikipedia declares in their article on dog attacks.
“Dogs as pack animals will often seek to dominate others in their pack or family (acquire more status and authority) if they feel they are able. A dog that seeks to dominate may use aggression as a means to elevate its perceived power and authority, or to make others respect its wishes and not challenge it. Pet owners are generally encouraged to not allow a dog to become overly dominant due to the aggressive behavior that may result.
Dominance may include “pushy” behavior, refusal to show respect or obedience to humans, attempted “ownership” of high status locations such as beds, sofas, or doorways, and in general, any type of behavior the animal sees as furthering a dominant social role.”
Again, the above is directly from the Wikipedia site.
When I lived in NY, Queens was the dumping ground for unwanted dogs. There was plenty of open space where owners could just pull up and let their dogs out. As awful as this sounds to us dog lovers, it happens all over!
There have been many domestic dog pack attacks in Queens. Obviously, we all know wolves do not live on Long Island. In Dec. 2001, a 74 yr old man was attacked by a pack of 5 abandoned dogs. This pack went on to also attack a jogger before they were captured. According to the victims, the dogs circled and stalked them prior to attacking. They attacked like “wolves” because it is their instinct. In Feb. 2005, a pack of 3 dogs found to be abandoned by their owners, terrorized a local neighborhood including an elementary school. The animal control declared these dogs as not vicious and said they were most likely someone’s pets that were left to fend for themselves. Again, these dogs relied on their instinct to form a pack and hunt and defend the same way a pack does.
All over the world stray dogs have formed packs to survive! In Jan. of this year in Bainbridge Georgia, a 73 yr old woman was attacked by a pack of five dogs. These dogs had also been responsible for attacking local livestock. Then in Feb of this year in Dayton Ohio, a pack of dogs was responsible for attacking a German Shepard and several other animals in the neighborhood. In Morristown, Tenn., a 22 yr old woman was attacked by a pack of 8 heelers while jogging down a rural road. They were owned by a local resident who was charged for letting them roam free.  Even in Italy, a 10 yr old boy was killed by a pack of famished dogs that were owned by local woman. They were not properly cared for and fended for themselves the way wolves would. And here in Texas, a pack of dogs in Lakeway was responsible for attacking local livestock a few months ago.
To say domestic dogs do not “act” as wild dogs or wolves do is ridiculous. Any dog will go back to their natural ways if abandoned or given the opportunity. It does not matter how long they were owned or “spoiled” by us humans. I have cases that owners have contacted me for, where one of the pack has been killed or seriously injured by another pack member. These dogs were not mistreated, nor neglected. They were domestic dogs that were cared for properly but given the right to have a pack order among themselves. The dog they killed or attacked in most cases was the weak, old alpha or another strong dominant dog that wanted the alpha position.
Remember in a pack, the leader will “size up” the situation and decide whether it is a good idea to attack or not. The pack will not act unless the leader says it is ok. If it is, they will circle, stalk, and one or more of the pack will attack from the best and safest position; usually from behind the victim. If the leader feels threatened in anyway by a situation, the pack will attack. It is a natural response for them. This is also seen in households. You are your dogs pack and hopefully, their leader.
Anyone who owns a dog needs to realize that they are pack animals. You cannot change this, no matter how long their lineage is, what size, or how well treated they are; they are still dogs and they still have a natural pack drive. This is not a bad trait; this is why a dog is such a loyal companion!
If you understand pack mentality and talk to them in their own language, dogs are calm, happy, and very obedient. Even a dog who has an aggressive history can become a great dog with the right owner and proper training.

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Dogs destroying your house! Why???

I received a phone call the other day from a clients dog.  Yes, the dog.  I was in the middle of a session and let my voicemail pick it up as to not interrupt my clients time.  After 4 minutes the voicemail alert rang.  My first thought was that someone really needed to “talk” about their dog.  When I finished my session I immediately listened to the message.  I heard lots of growling, snorting, and chewing followed by an owner in the background yelling at their dog, who continued to leave me a very graphic message.  The client who owned this prank caller had contacted me about the destruction the dog is causing on a daily basis.  “If it is not tied down, he will steal it and chew it up”, is what I was told on the consult.  I hear this everyday, owners who are distraught by their dogs destructiveness. 

The reason for most destructive behavior is boredom and frustration! While anxious dogs will also destroy things, the simple fact of the matter is, a tired dog is a good dog! 

This is the result of a dog who works!

 

 

 

 

 

 Proper exercise and a crate solve 90 % of destructive behaviors for owners. If you have not read it yet please read my post ”is it mean to crate your dog”.  

 Most owners feel that having a backyard for their dog to run around in all day or playing fetch is appropriate exercise for their dogs.  While physical activity is required for your dog, mental stimulation and focus makes your dog tired.  I like to use the example of you going to a party or social event.  If you go on a picnic and play frisbee, or catch you may be physically tired when you get home, but you are still able to do your daily routines.  If you are working, however, and have a deadline to make or had a really mentally stimulating day, anything you normally do can wait until the next day because you are just too tired physically and mentally!  The same holds true with dogs!  Bored or frustrated dogs will find something to occupy their time, and normally it is something that is quite expensive to replace or remove form their bellies. 

Play is just that , play.  Dogs need to work to feel fulfilled, and by this I don’t mean you must become a search and rescue team.  You can “work” your dog by simply taking them on a “controlled” walk or practicing obedience commands with them on a daily basis.  If you have taken your dog to an obedience class, you know how tired they are when they come home.  I have many people who tell me after an hour session, whether it is a private session or class setting, their dog is exhuasted.  The reason is they were working! 

The majority of owners never really “walk” their dogs.  They may take them out on a leash but they still allow them to sniff around, and mark everything during the walk.  Again this is not a “controlled” walk, this is them passing notes in class!  Your dog marks to let others know he was there and this is his territory.  If you have a backyard, there is no reason for them to mark on a walk.  That is what their backyard is for, try playing fetch before you go on your walk to help them empty out before the walk. If your dog is marking on your walks they are actually making their territory larger and will “protect” it from other intruders.  If you live in an apartment building, make it a point to walk your dog to a designated area to potty.  Pick one spot, and one spot only.  Have them walk with you in a “controlled” manner to that spot and then allow them to sniff and potty.  Then have them walked a “controlled” walk back to your apartment. 

A good “military” style walk where your dog focuses on you and not the world around them, wears them out and strenghens your leadership.  If you need help teaching your dog to walk better on a leash or are having anxiety issues, contact us or a local trainer to help you teach them!  Enroll your dog in a class or set aside time everyday to practice the commands they know for at least 30-45 minutes, and walk your dog!  These are the best solutions to stopping the destruction and long distance calls your dog may make!

Tara, Brandie & the “pack”

Dog/dog aggression

Dog-dog aggression, misunderstanding the problem

I receive emails and phone calls regularly about dogs with dog-dog aggression.  In most cases, distraught owners are trying to “correct” an issue they do not fully understand.   You need to fully understand canine body language and aggression before you should try to correct dog-dog aggression. There are different reasons for dog-dog aggression; it is not just one simple cause.You have the dog that explosively reacts the second they see a dog (even if it is not in your sight yet), a dog that sometimes reacts then other times seems “friendly”, a dog that gets along fine with dogs off leash but not on leash, and the dog that approaches other dogs friendly then “becomes Cujo” in an instant.  These are only a few of the descriptions we hear everyday. 

Different issues cause each description above. Unlike most trainers out there, I do not blame dominance for everything.  Too many trainers are very quick to label dog-dog aggression as a dominance problem.  This is not always the case.  In most cases the dog is clearly displaying stress & fear, correcting bad manners from another dog, reacting to your anxiety, or trying to stop you from being angry.

I have been asked on occasion to go to a dog park with clients (and if you read my “dog parks & why I avoid them” article, you know how I feel during these appointments).  It is always the same scene, pent up dogs running around out of control trying to dominate each other while other dogs cower near their owners who are trying to “force” them to play with the other dogs. This in itself should explain why we have issues of dog-dog aggression.

  Dog parks aside, a dog that approaches another dog then becomes Cujo in an instant, tells me one of two things.  Either the dog approached stiffly and gave a challenging stare, or the dog rushed in and rudely tried to say hello.  Sadly too many dogs are taken from mom too early and do not learn the proper “greeting” skills they need to stay out of trouble. If your dog is approached or is approaching another dog by rushing in paws first with the explosiveness of a truck, it’s a good chance they will be bitten; not because the other dog doesn’t like dogs but because that behavior is rude.  Tell me, if a stranger came running at you with their hands extended and yelling excitedly; would you stay there and see what happened next or would you go on the defensive, maybe even run away?  Your dog makes these same decisions.  Fight or flight, it is instinctual. 

 Another issue is the dog that sees another dog on leash and reacts before they even get near.  Again, this could be a couple of different things.  One, the dog may have been severely scolded at one time for “correcting” rude behavior and now must keep them far away before it upsets you again.  Two, it may not understand how to play and greet a dog properly.  We have had a couple of clients dogs that were so unsocialized they just truly did not understand how to play, the excitement of being around another dog literally launched them into a frenzy.  These dogs can learn how to play appropriately if done correctly. 

Bonita, the overly excited pit, learned how to be calm around her biggest challenge, Chihuahuas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Then we do have dogs that have taken the lead role and will not allow another dog to come close to their pack members.   This is usually seen when a dog body blocks their owner and launches toward another dog with teeth bared and hair raised. Their bark is not anxious (high pitched and quick), but a deep threatening growl and bark.  Their bodies are very tense and their tails are held very high, some of these dogs will turn and snap at the owner if corrected (they are the leader after all and they say when aggression is allowed).  Picture yourself in a bar and an attractive young thing comes up to your significant other. While you may not show your teeth, you sure will stand in the way of their path, right?  And if your significant other tries to correct you, look out, the fight is on.  A dog that has the lead role in your pack will not chance another dog coming in to “take over”. 

  The last and worst misunderstood problem is fear.  A large majority of dogs out there have fear based dog-dog aggression.  Again, this is commonly mistaken for dominance.  They are sometimes called “insecure bullies”.  This is not an appropriate term for this problem.  Anxiety and fear will cause your dog to instinctually go into flight or fight mode.  While some dogs will try to run away, still others will put on an impressive screaming display while lunging at the other dogs because they feel they must “protect” themselves. We see this with leash aggression as well.  It only takes one time for a dog to feel unprotected by you while on leash to develop into a leash aggressive dog.

If you have a dog with dog-dog aggression, we recommend finding a trainer/behavior specialist who has experience working with all types of aggression, this way they can read the signs correctly and help you and your dog get through this properly.

 

Tara, Brandie & the Pack

www.trainingbytara.com

Dogs & Kids, information for every parent

Misunderstanding Dogs & Kids

Many parents feel the family dog would never hurt their child.  We again see them as humans and believe they love our children as “siblings”.  Your dog may love you and your children, but in many cases they do not respect either.  The main reason for this post is a recent climb in child biting cases and some cases that I fear might have disastrous endings due to the passiveness in owners today.  If you are worried your dog may bite someone or it has shown aggression to anyone (even another animal), you need to be aware that your child may also be at risk. 

In 1994 Mathews and Lattal did a study about dog bites, it stated approximately one million dog bites occur each year just in the United States.  The number is now 4.5 million according to the ASPCA; and this number is just the bites that have been reported.   70% of these bites happen to a child, that’s over 3.5 million kids bitten annually in the United States.   Of these children bitten, 77% or just fewer than 2.5 million have been bitten in the facial area.  Sadly the number of children fatalities is climbing.  In 2008 the CDC recorded 23 dog bite fatalities, only 1 was not a child, 16 of these fatalities were kids under 11 yrs old.  These are eye-opening facts that every dog owner/parent needs to be aware of. 

The following are rules every parent should follow for your child’s safety.

1.  Never allow dogs in your child’s room.  This should be completely off limits!  If your dog is stealing your child’s belongings and sleeping in bed with them, they are not showing respect to your child! 

2. The dog should never be allowed to be around a child when unsupervised! Most bites occur when a parent is not there.  If your dog feels threatened, they will correct the child.  Their correction is by using their teeth, just as they do with puppies.

3. Your dog should have strong obedience commands already in place.  This way you can apply a down-stay if necessary.

4.     Your dog should see you as the leader of your pack!  If not, they will take it upon themselves to correct a child. Remember, only the pack leader decides who gets corrected.

5.     Your dog should not be playing a tug game with a child, under any circumstance! Tug is a challenge for rank in the pack.

6.     Children should not be allowed to go near a dog’s food dish or bone! Even the most highly trained dog can have a momentary lapse of reason.

7.     Your dog should have a strong groundwork foundation to build upon.

          Without strict rules or boundaries, it is impossible to expect your dog to “respect” you or a child

 

How to Avoid Dog Bites in Children

1.       NEVER disturb any dog that is sleeping, eating, or caring for puppies.  This is the first rule of dog etiquette. In any of these situations, a bite is almost definite.

2.     NEVER pet a dog, even your own, without letting him see and sniff you first.  A dog uses their sense of smell before all other senses.  This is how they identify people and other animals.

3.     Children must always ASK PERMISSION from the owner and their parents BEFORE petting any dog. I never allowed my daughter near strange dogs much less pet them and she grew up with “misunderstood” dogs.  I have seen too many parents let their children run up to a dog on a leash assuming the dog was friendly, while the frantic owner is pulling the dog back to avoid an accidental bite.  Responsible owners of aggressive dogs walk them to expend their energy and show they are in control; they should not have to have the added task of intercepting unattended children. And NEVER approach a strange dog you don’t know or a dog that is not with his owner.

4.     If the owner cannot control the dog and have it SIT nicely for the child to pet, WALK AWAY, even if the owner says they “love kids”.  A 50 pound excited dog can do serious damage with its paws.

5.     NEVER approach a dog that is confined behind a fence, within a car, or on a chain.  It is normal for a dog to protect its territory.  We have seen many well-trained dogs that put on quite the display to keep strangers out of their areas!  Again, they are doing their job.

6.     NEVER RUN away from a dog that is chasing you. STOP, STAND STILL, REMAIN CALM, ARMS AT YOUR SIDES, be quiet, and DO NOT SCREAM. Walk away SLOWLY FACING THE DOG BUT NOT STARING AT its eyes!  If a dog attacks, “feed” him your jacket, a schoolbook, a bicycle, or anything else that you can get between you and the dog.  If you are attacked, STOP, CURL UP IN A BALL LIKE A TURTLE, COVER YOUR HEAD WITH YOUR ARMS AND HANDS

7.     If a dog starts to circle you, turn with it and don’t let it get behind you! Turn your body slowly with the dog and NEVER stare at them!  Dogs hunt by circling their prey. They attack from behind 90 percent of the time to avoid being injured.  Play it smart, NO eye contact, no screaming!  If you scream, they will think you are prey or in a weakened state.

8.    Just because a dog wags its tail does not mean it’s friendly! A dog’s tail tells a lot, not just that it is happy.  A high set tail that is wagging is not a friendly tail.  A very quick wag is a sign of an anxious state. Just the tip wagging in a lowered position means the dog is afraid.

9.    If a dog is injured, do not touch or try to help it. Go get an adult!

10.   Do not tease a dog by poking at it through a fence and never chase a dog. 

If you own any dog, but especially a dog that has had the smallest amount of aggression; it is your moral and legal obligation to make sure that you do everything possible to insure that your dog is never in a situation where it could bite a child.

Tara, Brandie & the Pack.

 

 

 

Muzzle Training Your Dog Without Stress

Early in my career working as a veterinary technician, I witnessed countless dogs and owners stressed about their appointment.  In many cases, owners are nervous because their dogs generally show aggression when being handled or are typically suspicious about people outside their pack.  The dogs are nervous because strangers are going to be handling them and in certain cases, putting a strange thing on their nose. 

It is necessary for your veterinarian to take precautions for their safety and the safety of their staff.  If a dog is a risk for a bite, they use a muzzle for protection.  It also prevents your dog from learning that their bite will stop human interaction.  Each bite your dog delivers to humans, gives them more courage to do it again; it did after all stop the human from touching them in their mind.  It is unfortunately, an everyday occurrence at some practices that deal with pets that are not socialized properly. 

If you have a dog that is muzzled regularly at your veterinarian or are nervous they will be muzzled, I would recommend starting a program to help reduce that stress.  If you condition them to see a muzzle as a reward and not a stressful experience, your vet visit will be less stressful for all involved.

There are different types of muzzles on the market.  I prefer owners use wire or plastic cage muzzles.  They allow your dog to open their mouths and provide adequate airflow while completely protecting anyone handling them.  When a dog is stressed, they pant.  Without the ability to pant, they lose oxygen making them dizzy or faint, causing more panic and their defense drive to kick in.  You can purchase an inexpensive plastic cage muzzle at most pet stores or online.  I do not recommend nylon, cloth, or leather muzzles.  These types restrict airflow and you can still be bitten.  You may not suffer a puncture, but they can still pinch you with their front teeth, which can have some nasty effects too. 

All dogs hate to wear a muzzle in the beginning.  They tend to thrash around or paw at it to remove it from their noses.  If you follow this program, you can condition them to accept a muzzle without stress and sometimes they even look forward to it.

The first step in muzzle training is to place high value treats in the bottom.  By high value, I mean if your dog never gets chicken then use it only for muzzle training.  If you use the same treats you use for all other training, it becomes less exciting.  Have the dog sit near you and place your high value treat at the front of the cage muzzle.  When your dog puts their nose in to get the treat, mark with a verbal “yes”, you do not have to touch your dog when praising them.  Repeat this for 4-5 times then put the muzzle away.  The next day repeat this exercise with the same high value treat again 4-5 times.  I recommend you practice this for a full week, at least once daily.  Again, only use a high value treat for muzzle training!  After a week, your dog will see the muzzle as a special treat.

The next step is to put a leash on your dog and repeat the above step while holding the leash.  When your dog is eating the high value treat out of the muzzle, fasten it behind his ears. Have more treats ready and if he accepts the muzzle being fastened, slip a piece of chicken in through the cage (Another reason I like this type) and mark with a “yes”.  If he fights to get it off, give a calm but forceful verbal correction followed by a leash correction.  The level of your leash correction must be enough to redirect the dog’s focus to you.  When they stop fighting it, mark it with a “yes” and reward with the treat.  Never take the muzzle off if they are fighting, always wait until they calm down.  Work on this for another week, your dog should have no problem wearing a muzzle after this.  This exercise should be practiced randomly throughout the year so they remember that they only get that high value treat when that cage covers their nose. 

  Muzzle training must be done prior to use; they must feel comfortable wearing it around the house before you expect them to be comfortable in public.  If you cannot get your dog to stop fighting when the muzzle is fastened, you need to regain leadership in your pack.  I would recommend contacting a professional to help you. 

Tara, Brandie & The “pack”

www.trainingbytara.com

Is it mean to crate your dog?

 I recently read a couple of ads on craigslist that truly bothered me and I have to touch upon this subject.  One owner has a dog that is chewing up the walls in their house the other is having housebreaking issues.  Even though I generally will not read the responses from people trying to give advice on craigslist,  I fell into the trap and started going through the answers the general public were giving.  I was horrified to see what some people were saying and upon contacting the owners, I was more upset by the options they will take.  In all the years of working with dogs, the crate has in most cases become that dog’s saving grace.  

  I have many clients who ask me if they really need a crate for their dog.  I always tell them, if you have a dog, you need to own a crate.  If you own 4 dogs, you need 4 crates!  It is a natural instinct for your dog to enjoy a “den like” area.  Most dogs feel secure and comfortable in their crates. 

  Too many people feel they are being mean by crating their dogs.  They feel they are restricting their “exercise” and freedom.  If you are walking your dog and providing adequate exercise a crate will not affect your dog.

   A large number of people tell me they would hate to be crated and confined, and therefore their dog must be uncomfortable.  Your dog is not a person, they cannot stop and rationalize that chewing your furniture, shoes or walls is wrong.  They cannot stop and think that the outcome of eating a sock or clothing may be an expensive life threatening surgery to remove it.  They follow their instinct! 

  There are many reasons why you should crate your dog.  The first would be for housebreaking reasons.  A dog usually will not soil where it sleeps.  Those that do generally have a bigger issue going on then simple housebreaking problems.  Using a crate for housebreaking is quicker and more effective then old ways of just waiting to watch your dog sniff your expensive carpet area.  It gives them a set schedule to follow, your schedule.  How many people do you know that have a dog that needs to go out every hour and they panic if they can’t get home to let them out?  I know many, and the reason is the dog has the owner set to their schedule.  The dog demands the owner to follow their lead.  Tell me what is worse, coming home and becoming angry at your dog for something they have already forgotten or coming home happy because your house is the way you left it?  To your dog, you coming home and greeting them happily means more then being confined with a really good chew toy.

  The second reason is stated above.  A dog that gets bored and has free range of the house while you are gone, will find something to keep himself busy.  Usually it is very expensive to replace or remove from the dogs belly afterwards.  Your dog does not know you spent hundreds if not thousands of dollars on that beautiful sofa or dining room table.  They see their surroundings differently.  In the wild they chew on trees (table legs), rocks (nick naks), or dead bodies (garbage).  This is normal for them.  Then when you come home, they get scolded and punished sometimes harshly, for doing what they naturally do.  In a crate, you can supply them with the appropriate toys to chew on.  You can stop them from making their natural mistakes without breaking the trust they have for you.

  Another reason why the crate is needed is dominance.  If you have a dominant dog, it is imperative to keep him crated.  A dominant dog will take the leader position if not controlled properly.  To do this they must understand you are the leader, and you control everything in their lives.  When a dominant dog becomes the leader, they show aggression towards strangers, dogs, even family members.  Statistics show the majority of reported dog bites are from the family pet.  Children are usually the victims, and the face is the target.  A dog that shows aggression thinks it is the leader.  Only the pack leader shows aggression, or says when aggression is allowed!  If you have a dog who is displaying aggression, you need to get a crate and get some help.

  Another reason for the crate is separation anxiety.  Dogs with separation anxiety will sometimes go through windows, doors or even walls to get out and find their pack members.  They are so stressed by being left alone that they send themselves into a panic.  I have seen a dog literally chew through the sheetrock at the front door so badly you could see the wood shingles.  This is not healthy, and needs attention.  It also needs management, which includes a crate for their safety. 

  I highly recommend plastic airline crates that have the wire strip on either side.  Wire crates are OK for calm, quiet dogs that do not seemed phased by their surroundings.  High energy, anxious dogs need more secure crates.  If you try a wire crate with these dogs, you will most likely come home to a crate that looks like a truck hit it.  We had rescued a Greyhound/Shepard mix all of 50 pounds who made a wire crate look like the Hulk broke out of it.  She did great in plastic airline crate and went in it to feel secure even when not asked.  Wire crates allow the dog to see everything, and with an anxious dog this creates more anxiety.  Your best bet is to save money and automatically get a plastic airline crate.  If you make it a calm and comfortable habit of crating your dog, everyone will be happier in the long run.

 

 One of the people I spoke of in the beginning of this blog was debating leaving a muzzle on their dog while they were not home.   This is a dangerous and possibly the laziest solution I have heard.  Unfortunately thousands of dogs are surrendered to shelters and killed each year for housebreaking issues or destructive behavior.  The majority of these owners think using a crate is mean……..

 

 

Dog Parks, Why I avoid them!!!

My clients ask me everyday if there is a solution to the chaos at dog parks and if I would recommend them. My answer is no and definitely not! There are a few reasons why I never take my own dogs to dog parks and I will explain them in detail in this handout.

 

          While dog parks were a good idea, they have become a common place for dogs to run amuck and do as they please.  The normal picture at a dog park is a group of owners gathered together drinking coffee and talking to each other or an owner sitting on a bench reading a book.  A very small percentage of owners are actually watching their dogs.  Dog parks were originally set up for canine socialization purposes.  The rules were your dog must be on leash and you had to have control of your pet. 

People think socialization means letting their dogs roughhouse with other dogs.  This is not proper canine socialization.  Adult dogs play rough for one purpose, to gain rank.   Now, some people may say that dogs play rough naturally and they will with their littermates.  When they are puppies, they learn how to soften their bite, when it is acceptable to play, and when it is too much. Again, they are told when it is acceptable & when playtime is over! Your dog’s mom had complete control over her litter and would not allow vocal rough play. Most people do not understand pack structure or body language and therefore, should not be allowing rough play with other dogs.  Allowing rough play at dog parks is about as foolish as thinking you can let children fist fight to get them socialized. You would not let that happen, so why let your dogs fight?

          Dog parks are not a proper place to exercise your dog.  I have some clients who strictly use them to exhaust their dogs. The reason most dogs are exhausted is due to the high stress levels.  Taking your dog to a dog park for exercise creates dog fights because if you take a dog that has been pent up all day or all week and let them loose among other dogs with the same problem, you are bound to have a serious dog fight due to high frustration levels.  Picture a child at a playground.  If you kept your child isolated all day or all week and let them run loose without any rules, you could imagine what would happen?  I have some clients who tell me their dogs never really run around with the other dogs at a park, they tend to stay with the owner and not “socialize”.  They think there is something wrong with their dog; the common phrase I hear is they are “socially challenged” or a “loner”.  My answer is these dogs understand what is inevitably going to happen.  They are reading the body language of other dogs and are staying clear of the unstable behaviors and pre-fighting stances.

          In normal pack structure, there is always a “top” dog.  If you have more then one dominant male or female at the park, they will constantly be “t-ing off” (a body posture that displays dominance) or mounting each other. These are not signs of play!  These are signs of 2 dogs battling for the “top dog” position.  If one of them relinquishes then no fight between them will occur, however; the next dog in line becomes the target for the loser. The 2 original challenging dogs will more than likely keep at it over and over again to get the higher rank. This type of pack structure is also the reason so many small “weak” dogs get attacked.  I have a client who insists on taking his dog/dog aggressive dog to a dog park even after I recommended he keep the dog on a leash and avoids dog parks.  Recently, he contacted me to tell me that his 175 lb. dog had picked up a 10 lb. dog and violently thrashed it around “thinking it was a squeak toy” (words he used).  His dog really did not mistake it for a squeak toy.  His dog was reacting to a challenge for a Frisbee (which really was not his, but anything at this park his dog claimed because he was the “top dog”).  Even after this incident, the owner takes him off leash to dog parks.  He admits he never watches him and usually spends his time there socializing with other owners.  Is this fair to the other dogs? Of course not, but unfortunately, it happens on a daily basis. 

          Your dog should be getting exercise with a good, controlled, military style walk. This is healthier for them mentally and gains you more respect as well as a stronger bond. Socialization can be done on leash in a controlled setting.  Walk together or go to a pet friendly pet store. Your dog will be happier without the fighting and will see you are in control rather then the other dogs at a park. 

          If you feel your dog needs to play off leash with other dogs then have a play date with compatible dogs in a controlled environment. As long as you can call your dog and the other dog out of play and there is no dominance displayed, you are in good shape.

          If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us at 512-402-4229 or email us at myheart4k9s@aol.com

 

Tara, Brandie & the “pack”