Pit Bulls and Common Owner Mistakes

  As many of you know, I am dedicated to educating people on how to stop aggression in dogs.  I love my bull breeds and misunderstood dogs.  I always have and always will stand up for them when everyone else gives up.  As an advocate for the “bad reputation” breeds, I have spent months researching breed specific boards and discussion groups trying to get a “feel” for an average owner and what their views, beliefs, and the training methods are. 

  Any person who owns a computer can jump online and find a discussion forum that is dedicated to the breed they own.  This can be helpful in many ways; for example: learning about breed specific health issues, diet, and personality traits.  At the same time, this can be very dangerous for the breeds I love the most!

  Recently, I have read disturbing posts regarding making pit bulls more “persistent” by using cloth hang toys and flirt poles.  I am a firm believer in letting a dog release their mental frustration with a good game of tug, but you also need to teach them how to turn “off” their prey drive; NOT how to be more persistent.  Pit bulls have a naturally high prey drive as do many bull breeds; this is why we see them in the papers so often!  Too many owners forget that teaching a dog “persistence” leads to unwanted aggression.

  These same owners/breeders post comments about how they cannot get into a good game of tug because their dogs will incidentally get “out of control” and it results in a bite to their hands during play!!  They have essentially taught their dogs to “explode” when using their mouths!

  I have been barred from quite a few boards because I have voiced my concern about this and it makes me wonder how we can protect a breed that so many people already choose to ban if we are teaching them how to be aggressive! How can you say you are an “advocate” to the breed if you are admitting your hand in your dogs’ aggression? 

  Yes, you can use a flirt pole or play tug with a dog, but you must remember to teach control of their mouths as well.  If you own a “bully breed” or any other “misunderstood” breed, you must harness that behavior in a good way; not by teaching them how to be persistent with their mouths.  Use their natural power to pull, use their brilliance to excel at obedience, and use their mouths to retrieve and release not grab and hold!

  With all the “misunderstood” dogs I have rehabilitated, I have never seen a need to teach an average dog how to grab and hold.  You are conditioning your dog to not release when their bite is engaged.  The only cases where a dog should be taught these traits are for k-9 security officers, military, or police dogs.  There is a reason police and military personnel are so diligent in picking the right dog for the job.  Not every dog can be turned off when taught how to bite.

  Help promote the breed by being an ambassador by educating your dog and your neighbors on how intelligent they are instead of how “tough” they are.

How to teach a dog controlled play with humans

  Ok I have recently received more emails about how to teach a dog to control their play, that I thought I would put a video out there of how I teach controlled play.

  The video is 3 minutes long,  but you can get the idea within the first 2 minutes.  The first thing to do: let them drag a leash!  This could be your only form of control during excitement.  A dog that is overly excited will be snapping at the air or correcting you for your touch and restraint.  With a leash you can safely restrain the dog and if needed, you can stand on it to keep them still. 

  The boxer in this video could not stop his excitement and has become so overly excited during play that he would mouth and break skin.  I find the best way is to teach them a “cool down” moment at the 2 minute mark. Most play will escalate into rowdy behavior at 2 minutes.  By practicing this a couple times a day, you will be conditioning your dog to “auto cool down” at the 2 minute mark.  If your dog mouths you before 2 minutes, immediately have a “cool down” moment. 

  This can also be used for the dog who likes to body slam you as well.  When a dog throws himself at you, stand up and give the “sit” command, stop all play and ignore him for 30-45 seconds or more if he is still not relaxed.   In my experience, it is better to make them have a “time out” right where the problem happened.  If you take them to their kennel or another room, they will already forget what they are there for.  I hope this video helps you and if you have any questions please feel free to email us!

Out of control to controlled play, how can I do this?

I frequently get calls about dogs that start out playing nicely then suddenly erupt into growling and biting. Many people think their dogs are being aggressive or that they are schizophrenic. Your dog does not act this way because they “flipped a switch”; they do this because it is normal for play to get heated after a couple of minutes of rough play.
We tend to teach our dogs to stop and relax after one and half to two minutes of play. We do this by having them on leash in the beginning. We start a good game of tug then at 1.5 minutes we say calmly, “enough” and stop play. We will do it sooner if they start to growl. We literally wait 30-45 seconds then start play again. This quick “cool down” mode is repeated with each play session to condition them to do so on their own. Just like anything else, you must be consistent. With enough practice, they will automatically separate from play on their own at 1.5-2 minutes. Our pack will run around chasing each other then get to nipping at each others legs, like clockwork they all break off at 2 minutes and walk away to start sniffing the ground. This is a signal to the other dogs that there is no challenge. You can teach any dog to do this, at any age.
If you watch an adult dog play with a rowdy puppy, they will stop and turn their bodies away from them or possibly walk away when the pup gets rough or vocal. They usually “avoid” the pup until the pup gets distracted and try again. This teaches the pup that playtime stops with rowdy behavior. The adult dog will repeatedly continue this process, unless the pup does not stop. If the pup does not stop, they will give a warning “chuff” or “growl” before a correction. This is where most people make mistakes.
Humans have been conditioned to correct simultaneously with a verbal correction, which is not fair to the pup, nor does it teach them anything. We have to remember that pups learn from our actions, if you correct at the same time as a verbal; you are not giving them time to make the right decision. Try to remain calm when correcting your pup and in a firm, low tone, say “uh uh”. Wait a couple of seconds then correct if the behavior is continuing. By correcting, I do not mean “roll” them on their backs! This will only make your dog anxious. If you have them on a leash, a quick down/stay is enough to stop unruly behavior. If your pup does not know down or stay, stand on the leash with them next to you and ignore them until they calm down. When they do, calmly without petting them say “ok” and start again. Why should you not pet them? This brings their excitement right back to a peak. By calmly saying “ok”, you are displaying what you want, calm behavior.
Teaching your pup calmness and proper play can be a challenge but don’t give up and don’t get frustrated. Stay calm and you will have the results you want in a matter of time!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & “the pack”

Aggression Research Study

We do not ask your name or information for this survey, it is strictly for research purposes.  Included in this survey are questions from the Volhard Drive Test, one of the legendary experts in dog behavior. Please feel free to share this with your friends and family. The more surveys we receive, the more acurate the research.
We ask that you fill out the following questions to the best of your knowledge, and send them to our research email:
thepacktrack@gmail.com

Aggression Research Survey

What breed of dog do you own?

What age did they start showing aggression?

What age & where did you acquire your dog?

What age were they taken away from mom?

What is their current age?

Was your dog very mouthy as a pup? (biting hands, legs)

Has their bite gotten harder?

How have you tried to correct the mouthing?

Has your dog been to obedience classes? At what age?

Does your dog pull or lunge on walks?

What is the target of his/her aggression?

Does you’re dog snap, bark at you when corrected?

Please answer the following on a scale of 0-10
(10 being all the time, 5 being sometimes, 0 being never)

When you are walking, do they sniff the ground or air?

Get excited by moving objects, such as bikes or squirrels?

Stalk cats, other dogs, or things in the grass?

When excited; bark in a short, high-pitched voice?

Pounce on his toys?

Shake and “kill” his toys?

Steal food or garbage?

Like to carry things in his mouth?

Eat in a hurry?

Like to dig and/or bury things?

Get along with other dogs?

Get along with people?
Bark when left alone?

Solicit petting, or like to snuggle with you?

Like to be groomed?

Seek eye contact with you?

Follow you around like a shadow?

Play a lot with other dogs?

Jump up to greet people?

Show reproductive behaviors, such as mounting other dogs?

Stand his ground or show curiosity in strange objects or sounds?

Like to play tug-of-war games to win?

Bark or growl in a deep tone of voice?

Guard his territory?

Guard his food or toys?

Dislike being petted?

Guard his owner(s)?

Dislike being groomed or petted?

Like to fight other dogs?

Get picked on by older dogs when he was a young dog?

Run away from new situations?

Hide behind you when he feels he can’t cope?

Act fearfully in unfamiliar situations?

Tremble or whine when unsure?

Cower or turn upside down when reprimanded?

Act reluctant to come close to you when called?

Have difficulty standing still when groomed?

Cower or cringe when a stranger bends over him?

Urinate during greeting behavior?

Tend to bite when cornered?

And finally,

What type of training tool do you use now or have you used for walking?
& at what age did you start using these different tools? (Please give age for each tool used.)

1. Prong/Pinch Collar

2. Slip Collar

3. Martingale

4. Gentle Leader or head halter type

5. Easy Walk Harness or no pull harness type

6. Regular Harness

7. Regular Flat Collar

Thank you for taking our survey!

Training by Tara
www.trainingbytara.com
512-402-4229
for appointments:
myheart4k9s@aol.com

Is playing with my dog enough exercise?

Adequate exercise for your dog

I have had many people ask me, “What is the right amount of exercise for a dog?” My answer is always, if your dog spends a good majority of the time with you, in a relaxed state; no pacing, no destruction and no anxiety, you know your dog is getting enough exercise.
All dogs need exercise to be happy and healthy. Their natural instinct is to walk for miles, following the leader to find and hunt for food. This is why you never see a pack with a member who is destructively chewing things, running off or acting out. These long walks fulfill their physical and mental needs. Let me stress that it is the “walk” that they need. Too many times I have heard “my dog has a big backyard to exercise all day in.” This is the worst thing anyone can tell me. Your backyard is not adequate exercise for your dog. They may get a burst of energy and do fence sprints to chase away intruders (people outside their territory or even squirrels and cats who dare to challenge their turf); but for the most part of their outside time they are laying around enjoying the sun and fresh air. If you were sitting around playing video games all day, with an occasional trip to the kitchen, would you feel exercised? The answer is no. Neither does your dog after spending hours out in that big beautiful yard you have. Another mistake is thinking that playing ball or Frisbee for 30 minutes is enough. It truly isn’t. A strict military style walk for 20-30 minutes (or more depending on the breed) where they have to focus on you (the leader) will wear your dog out. Think of it this way, you go to a picnic, you are socializing, playing games all day. When you get home you can still function and do things, right? However, if you are at work and have to meet a deadline by 5 pm, your mind is very actively thinking about getting things done. Now when you get home those things you wanted to do, well they can wait until the next day because, wow, you are exhausted! This has always been my theory on proper exercise for your pet. Playtime will never wear them out, work will. Walking with their leader (you), and focusing on the job at hand makes them more tired. If you have problems with leash walking check out our leash control program, don’t give up. It only leads to destruction of your personal items, and a dog that does not mind you. A strict walk solidifies your role as leader to your dog! Remember, whoever is in the lead, is the leader!
The amount of time your dog needs to exercise depends on the breed, size and age of your dog. A border collie requires large amounts of exercise and mental stimulation in order for them to be calm, where a pug only requires short walks and games that make them think. If you own or are looking to own a dog, research the breed to make sure it matches your energy and activity levels. Unfortunately too many people impulsively purchase a dog without having any idea what physical requirements are needed in the future. Every dog is different, with different physical and mental needs. With that said, all dogs need exercise. Without it they find a way to release their energy, and normally it isn’t the right way. I have seen some dogs lie down next to a wall and chew through sheetrock just to release their tension. Others will chew furniture, dig up the yard, chew personal items, mouth their owners, or start to display anxious behavior. A tired dog rarely displays signs of anxiety; they burn off that bad energy.
For some dogs, mostly working breeds, I recommend using a doggie backpack to add to the walk and give them a job. With our 18-month-old Border Collie, daily obedience practice and tricks are needed (to keep her mind busy) as well as an hour run. The run is combined with a backpack that has frozen water bottles on each side for weight. This also keeps her cool while running; you need to use caution as to not overheat your dog. For our Chihuahua, a short training session is enough to wear her out. Ask your veterinarian or find a breed group site to tell you how much exercise your dog needs and can handle.
For dogs that cannot exercise physically, teach them tricks or commands. Daily practice sessions with your dog will not only make your bond stronger, but also give you something to show your friends and family! “Look how smart my dog is!” The more commands or tricks you do with your dog, the more focus you get from them. We call it the “what’s next?!” look. You will soon notice that your dog is actively looking to you for the next fun thing to do!
If you provide adequate exercise and mental stimulation for your dog, you will both benefit. No more stress or frustration for you, and no more boredom for them!

Tara, Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Dog Whisperer: good,bad & should you practice it?

Dog Whisperer Fans, please read!
On a daily basis, I hear from clients that they are big fans of the Dog Whisperer. While I am thankful Caesar Milan has raised awareness about the fact that corrections are necessary for dogs, there are a few things I really need to touch upon.
For years, I have been in some heated debates about correcting a dog instead of using strictly “positive/reward” based methods. I modify a dog’s behavior the way another dog would; they correct for bad pack manners and reward for good behavior. When was the last time you witnessed an alpha of a pack give a reward or affection to a pack member for challenging their rank? This being said, too many people are over-correcting their dogs because they watch Caesar and do not reward and praise behavior they want! I witness the clients who use Caesars methods of “shhing”, biting with their hands, rolling the dog on their side, and “kicking” them in the rump everyday. Most of these dogs are being corrected for fear or lack of leadership on the owner’s part!
While it seems that every dog Caesar works with miraculously turns good in one episode, I urge people to understand that this show is edited and certain cases are shown for a reason. Most of the cases that are aired are “hard” dogs, or dogs who “bounce” back from a correction quickly. He also understands a dog’s body language and personality before he begins his “treatment”, which he generally changes if the dog is weak nerved (although arguably not enough). I cannot begin to tell you how many times I have seen an owner use the “kick” method to a dog’s rump if they are barking at another dog. This is probably my biggest pet peeve about the show! There is no reason to ever “touch” your dog with your foot! If you cannot redirect your dog’s attention, you and your dog need more training! Countless people have turned their dogs into anxious messes because they are being over-corrected or misunderstood!
One case “Caesar” fan I worked with had been a dog with food obsession. The owner repeatedly scruffed the dog and forced him into a down position while he was eating because he was stiffening up by his bowl. Everyday this dog felt like eating was a battle and of course, became increasingly aggressive and anxious when feeding time came around. This made the battles worse and eventually, made the dog growl and challenge the owner for everything. Yet another was a fearful little dog that barked at other dogs out of fear and anxiety, the owner repeatedly “kicked” the dog in the rump to redirect her attention on him. This just made the dog more fearful of the owner and more reactive to any dog coming. The cases go on and on, really there are too many to list. The major problem with doing what you watch is the lack of knowledge he gives about why he performs his methods on certain dogs! Again as many trainers and behavior specialists in the field, this is where my frustration lies!
I do believe corrections are needed for bad behavior, but one good correction, not constant corrections. If your dog is not responding to one correction, you are doing it wrong! Stop and get help before things get worse and you lose the respect of a strong and fair leader. This is very important to remember, all dogs need a strong but fair leader (a leader that not only corrects, but rewards and communicates when they do something properly).
I rarely see clients praise the dog when it performs well. I do see people over-correcting and holding on to their anger even after the deed is done. You must remember your dog does not rationalize as we do. When your dog barks at another dog and you correct for it, don’t keep talking to them or try to explain why they can’t do this. After a correction if they look at you, this is what you want and they should get praise for eye contact with you, not more correcting! This is extremely important! How many times have you corrected your dog for something then had a long conversation with them as to why they can’t do that? Your dog cannot understand your lecture, but they can understand that you’re angry and now you are correcting them for looking at you!
Please continue to watch the Dog Whisperer as he is helping many people understand that dogs are not humans, but I urge you to not try his techniques unless you truly understand WHY your dog is doing what they are doing.
Tara,Brandie, Amanda & the “pack”

Why you should not “alpha roll” your dog!

When I ask “how do you correct your dog” on a consult, sometimes I hear, “I roll him on his back until he submits”.  I hear this daily from owners with dogs who have aggression due to dominance or fear.  In most cases, the owners have tried to correct aggression by “rolling” their dogs and think their dog is just a lost cause because they will get right back up and show aggression again.  The old time theories were to “alpha roll” your dog into submission.  If a person had a dominant dog, they were often told to roll that dog over onto their backs and hold them in that position until they stopped struggling.  This, in theory, was to make a dog see you as a leader.  Unfortunately, many trainers and owners paid the price for misinterpreting canine body language.

   Too many people think a dog on their back is submitting when they are actually in a defensive position.  If you watch two dogs fighting or “rough playing” until the end, you will understand why this is incorrect.  A conflict usually involves two dogs, the “attacker” and the “challenger”.  The “attacker” generally is on top and standing over the “challenger”.  The “challenger” is usually on their backs, so they can use their paws to defend themselves and if the chance arises, they can inflict a fatal bite to the neck.  The fight does not end with the “challenger” on their back; the “attacker” will not end it until that dog is lying on its side. A dog on their side has surrendered and admitted defeat.

   I had the opportunity to meet a trainer early in my career who still had the scars on his face from an “alpha roll” gone wrong.  He admitted in hindsight, he should not have attempted to “roll” this dog and put himself and the owners at risk. When you put a dog in a defensive position, they will try to fight you; it’s natural.  In most cases, people receive multiple bites to the forearms upon releasing the dog and in some cases, the dog will get the chance to inflict a damaging bite to the face.

  I try to explain to people that first; your dog should not fear you! Wrestling your dog to the ground and trying to overpower them is pointless and causes more damage psychologically.  You simply cannot win a fight with a dog without getting hurt.  A dog generally will not take on a challenge they cannot win and people should learn this too.  Even the smallest dog can inflict damaging results with their teeth.  Secondly, if you have to keep correcting, you’re obviously doing something wrong! 

  Every dog has a different personality, it does not matter what breed it is.  If you try to “overpower” a fragile dog, you will make them a fear biter.  If you try to “overpower” a dog that has a high fight drive, you will definitely get hurt and normally not just a small wound. Your best chance at helping your dog is to contact a professional that can “read” your dog and work with you to rehabilitate them and start a proper program.

Tara, Brandie, and the pack

Thank you to those who are not giving up on their pets!

After a long week of holiday training, I want to extend a thank you to those who have decided to work with their dogs instead of surrendering them to a shelter. I know, to many people, there are times when it seems like there is no other alternative but to find a new home for their “misunderstood” dog (whether it be aggression or destruction). I want to thank all of my clients and people who have contacted me this holiday season, for deciding to work with them instead. All of your dogs are wonderful creatures who undoubtly love you and are eager to show you how much they can do right! As you all know my only goal in what I do is to help everyone keep their dogs, and this year has shown me that there are wonderful pet owners who are willing to put in the work it takes to make it work. For your dogs I thank you, and I am proud of everyone of you for the loyalty and persistance you all have put in to helping your canine family members.
Hugs to all and thank you again!
Tara Brandie and the “pack

About Training by Tara, dog training and behavior modification in South Austin tx

As some of you know I have been training “misunderstood” dogs for quite a long time.  It is my passion in life to help rehabilitate dogs who are deemed “un adoptable” or help owners keep their dogs instead of surrendering them to the shelter because of behavior issues. My own pack is made up of dogs who would have otherwise been killed due to behavior problems. They now live happy and peacefully with each other and help other dogs and their owners overcome many obstacles. All of my pack, even the Chihuahua, work on a daily basis. A working and exercised dog is a happy dog! I base my dog training and behavior modification programs on body language, and gaining the respect and trust you and your dog need to live happily. I am a firm believer that a human has to be a strong and FAIR pack leader, and not one that places fear or bribery as a tool for obedience.

I have helped in the rescue efforts in Austin, and will continue to do so as long as I live here. I have dedicated my life to these unfortunate dogs and I will never stop.  There is no better feeling then to see a dog who was set to be killed, find a new home and walk away with their tail wagging and their new owners smiling and hugging them.

Please help Austin become a no-kill city. Thousands of dogs are killed each year, and there truly is an answer to this. I urge you to visit www.fixaustin.org to see how you can help. It is possible. Thank you Ryan Clinton, founder of fixaustin, for your work in helping these animals!